First of all a very happy new year guys (late though). Firstly, for all those people who missed me....awwww but I am back (a pleasing nod) and those of you who din't awww, I am back (don't care much nod). Am sure all of you had a marvelous and happening new years eve, with gallons of booze down your throat and tons of fresh meat in between your teeth I rather had a very interesting and different new years celebration. For a change, and so luckily I got two days off from my maddening life and ran away to a rather serene and quiet place to beckon 2014...to Pattadakal and Badami caves. The journey was quite simple - Yeshvantpur station - Mysore, Solapur express - Badami station. those of you, who have already been to Hampi thenlet me clarify that Badami is no way like that. It is a small place with practically no people, except for some crazy tourists with rocky hills surrounding it.
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| Bhoothnatha Temple, Badami |
I reached there at 7 in the morning and you can imagine how unimaginably beautiful it might have been. But not all is beautiful and quiet when you next approach the auto ride. The general rate is 100 rs to anywhere from the station and it is one hell of a bumpy ride. The roads are simply awful and continues forever - its like dancing in a telegu song without any control of your body parts! But somehow that too you fall in love with as there is no crowd but green pastures and humongous hills, which are echoing history and you don't know for how long. So the effect of this whole journey can be twofold - You think in the way, that its a tiny wonderful place, where your mobile internet do not work which is great, the people are simple and there are just few hotels that serves the purpose or it is a place, where in spite of it being like a 'world heritage site,' the roads are simply awful, with no street lights or anything, no proper place to stay and those which are there are little expensive,not an inch of development and you are vehemently asked not to step out of the hotel after 6 pm. That is no one way how you perceive a tourist place, most of all which is flocked by 'whites,' but yes you get BEER...all the time ! The KSTDC hotels are the best and you have the option of choosing a car or an auto for your tour. If you ask me, get an auto. So the whole tour of Badami Caves and Pattadakal can be completed in just a day, but if you are one of those who wants to 'sit, think and love,' world heritage sites then try saving its at least for 2 days. Boredom won't dare to touch you at all.
I believe I should introduce briefly to the history of the Badami caves and the group of temples of Pattadakal for a better understanding. The Badami caves is considered as an example of Indian rock cut
architecture of the 6th and 8th centuries. there are four caves; all curve out of the soft Badami sandstone on a hill cliff in the late 6th and 7th centuries. Cave 1 is dedicated to Lord Shiva, Cave 2 and 3 to Vishnu and Cave 4 to Jain. There are long flights of stairs and people having knee problems should not try hard. Each of these caves has unique architectural styles, where humongous statues of Vishnu, Durga, Mahavira and Shiva can be noticed. I think the most beautiful sight would be the whole of Badami looks up to you. How beautiful it is especially during the twilight..!! It depends on you how long you want to stay back and enjoy the caves. I sat and sat and sat and experienced every bit of it, which is why a guard has to come and remind me that it is the closing time. So back to the guest house and nothing much to do in the evening. So an early dinner and sleep and all geared up for the beautiful Pattadakal temples.
Pattadakal is around 30 kms from Badami and again auto is your chariot. But...but...but..no matter how much you might be enjoying the surrounding the road is bumpy, graciously bad and simply unmanageable. I won't give you any false hope that at the end you'r gonna love it because that won't happen for sure. But all is worth when you catch the first glimpse of the temples far away but standing gallantly.
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| Pattadakal |
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| Pattadakal |
Again a brief history of this place. Pattadakal was the Chalukhyan capital, where temples were built between 7th and 8th centuries. There are ten temples including a Jain sanctuary surrounded by numerous small shrines and plinths in fusion of various Indian architectural styles. Four temples were built in Chalukya Dravidian style, four in Nagara style of Northern India and the Papanatha temple in mixed style. Nine Shiva temples and one Jaina basadi, situated along the northern course of the river, Malaprabha. Please do not take a guide. they will eat your head. Please..please experience the beautiful architecture not just by photographs but imagining the gigantic temples that stand in front of you. Do a little study before you venture out or else carry with yourself a book.There are innumerable ones and especially George Michell's 'Pattadakal' is the best one. I reached there at 10 in the morning and believe me, when I say this left at 6 pm. I don't know what I was doing but all I can say 31st December could not have been so so and so better. I experienced bliss in the stillness of those walls. I encountered another interesting soul - a person from Lithuania. He came down all the way to have a real 3D sketch of those temples. He said he came at 6 in the morning and saw the most beautiful
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| Mahisasurmardini |
sunrise in the world..after the one he saw in Pashupati temple, Nepal. One very interesting thing caught my attention was an idol of 'Mahisasurmardini' in one of the temples, and got to know that mahisasurmardini was in fact worshiped in the southern India as a folk goddess for a very long time. the incarnation is in fact very similar to the way in which she is worshiped today in Bengal. Apart from these two you can also see the Bhoothnatha temple, Badami fort (not much is left), and Aihole caves
The purpose of my blog is not to describe you the beautiful architectural designs or the temples that I saw, because as you will guess they are indeed beautiful and probably beautiful is just an understatement. I want everyone to know that there so many unknown places in India which are craving to be discovered by the people who loves traveling. Pattadakal in spite of it being a world heritage site is not known by most and thats a pity. Pattadakal also hosts a major dance festival which is something worth witnessing. India is not only about Delhi and Agra. I boasts so much of diverse culture and traditions which are depicted in various and amazing ways. South India holds 4 of the major world heritage sites. My intention is to cover all the ancient and medieval ruins in India. So far 3 is done...what about you? So pack your bags and let the dais roll..!! For now enjoy the amazing pictures and get jealous...!
FYI did you that there is no train announcement that happens at the Badami station and that when a train arrives the station master comes and simply rings a bell? Should i still give you more reasons to visit this place?
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